Puppy Shopping List

So you’re adding a puppy to your family. Congratulations! Bringing home a new puppy is easily one of the most exciting things you’ll ever do. The excitement & anticipation are certainly building. One thing you can do to prepare for your new bundle of fur is to go shopping! Part of being a responsible puppy owner is making sure you’re prepared—and that you have everything you need to help your new best friend through the transition to his new home. But what, exactly, do you need for a new puppy? Let’s take a look at everything you need to do, buy, and prepare for as you get ready to bring your puppy home for the first time.

Here are some suggested items to purchase for your Goldendoodle puppy!

Once you decide to get your puppy, the very first thing you need to do is make sure that your home is ready for your new addition. Puppies are naturally curious, and they have a tendency to get into everything—including things they shouldn’t. Puppy proofing your home is a must, both to protect your new dog and to protect your home! Invest in a few dog gates that allow you to block off doorways and keep your new puppy contained to a certain area of your home. That way, you can keep an eye on your dog and make sure he’s not only safe but isn’t getting into any mischief (like chewing on your favorite pair of shoes!).

Once you’ve puppy-proofed your home, it’s time to stock up on the basics your new dog will need to be happy, healthy, and comfortable.

Look to purchase stainless steel or ceramic bowls, as they are healthier for your puppy. Plastic bowls can be chewed, and are harder to clean/sanitize.

Puppies will quickly outgrow their first collar, but that doesn’t mean that picking the first collar isn’t important! Adjustable, Flat dog collars will allow your puppy to easily adjust to wearing a collar as they have an adjustable lengths and are easily fitted with a snap buckle. Breakaway collar, for quick release Martingale collars and slip collars are meant for leash and behavioral training. (we sell slip leads here)

With your pup’s name and your phone number in case your puppy gets lost. Your puppy will go home with a microchip, but it’s always a good idea to have a tag on her collar to make it easy to identify her (without a microchip reader!)

Pick out a sturdy flat lead that is 3/4″ wide that’s 5′-6′ long. Flexi leads are not the best choice for young puppies.

Dogs are den animals, and they love the comfort and security offered by a snug space of their own. Metal is preferable over plastic, as it is easier to clean, puppies won’t chew through it and allows your puppy to watch everything going on around her. Your pups crate should be only large enough for your dog to sit, turn around and lay down comfortably. 30” crate is what I would suggest. Some crates offer the option to start off smaller with inserts, so your crate size can grow as your puppy does. You don’t want a crate that is too big for your puppy, as this will allow him to use the extra space as his toilet. A proper sized crate is a helpful tool for house-training and can also help prevent anxiety by establishing your dog’s personal safe space.

There are thousands of options when it comes to dog beds, but your puppy only really cares that his bed is soft and clean. Towels, blankets or fancy plush dog beds are all acceptable to your pup! Ensure whatever you choose is easily washed, as potty accidents are bound to happen when your puppy first comes home.

Puppies need toys and lots of them! Teething toys help puppies focus their need to chew into an appropriate outlet. Toys should be durable and made with puppy-safe materials that they can’t destroy. Puppies should be supervised when playing with toys to avoid ingestion of small broken off pieces. Interactive puzzle toys are also available to stimulate your puppy’s brain and keep him busy longer!

Whether a stuffed lion, a squeaky octopus, or a treat-dispensing toy, puppies adore their playthings. Toys can be categorized into chew toys that satisfy the need to gnaw, like hard-rubber toys; plush toys, like stuffed animals, that provide comfort to dogs; fetching toys, like balls and flying discs; rope and tug toys, which help to floss teeth while the pup plays; and critical thinking toys, like treat-dispensing devices, that release goodies when the pup performs a certain task.

Despite all the toy choices at your local pet store, you should only offer your puppy strong, durable, well-made toys that are sized appropriately for him. If your puppy does destroy a toy (and he probably will!), remove the damaged toy immediately. Exposed squeakers can be dangerous, as are stuffing, frayed rope toy strands, and small torn-off pieces that can be ingested.

Puppies like to get dirty, which means lots of baths! Have puppy-safe shampoo on hand to help remove dirt and grime.

Add essential oils to your shampoo. This is a natural way to keep your dogs bug free. When bathing your puppy, be sure to lather them up very well with the shampoo and let it sit on their skin for about 5 minutes before rinsing. Using a natural pesticide shampoo is a great preventative year round. For conditioner we often just use our own! It is not harmful. Whatever smells the best!

A metal comb is a great tool for curly coated Goldendoodles and a grooming rake works well for wavy coated Goldendoodles. These will help keep in undercoat free from tangles. For more information on grooming, ​

A slicker brush is handy for fluffing the outer coat on your Doodle.

We like to use normal human toenail clippers for trimming our dogs’ nails. Either nail clipper or a cordless dremel will work for trimming your puppy’s toenails as well – it’s a matter of which you prefer. Your puppy will have had it’s nails trimmed prior to going home and your vet & groomer will likely offer to trim her nails when you take her in for appointments, but it’s still important for you to trim her nails at home.

It’s a good idea to have styptic powder on hand just in case you trim your puppy’s nail a little too short. Styptic powder is located next to the nail clippers in the pet store.

You may find that the finger toothbrush is easiest to use when your Goldendoodle is a puppy.

Dog food often comes in large bags and needs to be stored to remain fresh. Keep your dog food tasting great by storing it out of direct sunlight in a bin that seals tightly. Ensure this bin is made of materials that can keep your dog out to prevent accidental overeating.

Puppies are curious creatures and often get into trouble when you least expect it. Having a first aid kit in the house can help when your puppy has an accident. This kit should contain medical supplies, your veterinarian’s contact information and the number for the pet poison hotline.

(Stain/Odor Eliminator) & Paper Towels and Clorox Wipes
To clean up those inevitable puppy accidents…

There may be areas of your home that aren’t puppy proofed or that you don’t want your puppy to enter. Use puppy gates to block off these areas so your puppy doesn’t get into trouble!

A bell is handy for housebreaking, so your Doodle has a way to tell you when she needs to go out. Any bell will work, it doesn’t have to be a bell specifically for dogs.

Toxic Food to Animals

Before you bring home your new puppy, you should also do a sweep of your entire home to identify and remove any potential safety hazards. Could your dog get into the pantry and chow down on potentially hazardous foods (like chocolate)? If so, invest in a lock or gate to restrict access to the area. Do you have a number of plants in your home? Do your research to make sure none of them are toxic to dogs—and, if they are, get rid of them. Remember—your new puppy won’t be able to identify any safety hazards, so it’s up to you to remove them from your home before your puppy arrives.

For some people, a pet’s craving for human food may seem cute or entertaining. Because people enjoy certain foods without immediate health risks, they may mistakenly assume that their pets can enjoy the same items without any ill effects other than potential weight gain. Unfortunately, weight gain is only one of the many problems that may arise from feeding one’s pet certain types of human food. Some foods, even those that are commonly associated with pets such as cats, are toxic and can cause digestive problems or even death. The safest thing that one can do for their pet is to eliminate any risk and avoid feeding them human food altogether. If that is unacceptable, pet owners must research what foods are safe and which are toxic.

Examples of toxic foods for pets, in general, include alcohol, which can cause depression, breathing problems, and even death; grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure; and doughs made of yeast, as they can cause a pet’s intestines to rupture. Chocolate and foods containing caffeine can result in vomiting, abnormal heartbeat, increased urination, seizures, and, in some cases, death. Some items, such as milk, are confusing for pet owners, as images of cats lapping up saucers of milk are common. In reality, milk causes digestive issues such as diarrhea, as animals lack enough of the enzyme needed to break down lactose. Other foods that may be toxic to animals include garlic, citrus, raisins and grapes, walnuts, avocados, onions,garlic, chives, Xylitol, Salt and Salty Snack Foods and macadamia nuts and other nuts.

Toxic Plants to Animals

Toxic plants are both an indoor and outdoor safety issue for families with pets. Pet owners must be aware of what plants they bring into their home for decorative purposes during the holidays or for everyday decor. Outdoor flowers, shrubs, and other plants can prove dangerous to pets that may chew and eat them.

When purchasing plants, one can ask local nurseries which plants are safe for animals, and nurseries can also help identify clippings of plants that may be toxic. One’s vet is also a source of information, and they can provide pet owners with a list of plants to avoid both indoors and outside. While there are more than 700 plants that are dangerous if ingested, some of the more common ones include flowers such as calla, day, and Easter lilies, azaleas, hydrangeas, oleander, and autumn crocus.

Other plants that are toxic to animals include the elephant ear plant, English ivy, and rhododendron. If one’s pet has eaten a toxic plant, the animal may show signs such as tremors, vomiting, lethargy, and breathing rapidly. Pet owners who suspect that their animal has poisoned itself should take it to the vet immediately. They should also bring a cut sample of the ingested plant.

Indoor Pet Safety

For some people, their pets spend a good deal of time indoors. While this may seem safer than letting pets outdoors, there are dangers both hidden and obvious that can prove deadly for household pets. Toxic chemicals in the form of household cleaners can be dangerous for pets. Cleaners should be kept closed and stored in a location where they cannot be knocked over or otherwise spilled. People should also avoid using chemicals near their pets, particularly near their food and water.

Windows can be dangerous for pets, particularly high windows. Keep these closed or use screens to prevent animals from falling out.

Stairs may also prove dangerous for pets and owners alike, as some pets may have difficulty walking up or down them and fall, and pets laying on stairs can become stumbling hazards for people. Baby gates can be utilized to keep pets off of stairs and effectively eliminate these types of risks.

Candles are yet another safety issue for homes with pets. Candles should be placed in a sturdy location high enough so that they cannot be knocked over. Special care should be taken when burning candles in homes with cats. Household temperatures are another danger for pets, particularly during the summer months. Temperatures inside of one’s home can increase during the summer months, causing pets stress and putting them at risk for heat exhaustion. People can keep their homes cool by programming their air conditioning unit so that it remains a comfortable temperature. Closing shades or blinds can also keep some of the heat out. Ideally, if a pet is kept inside of a home during a hot day, place the animal in one of the cooler rooms in the house and make certain that clean water is accessible.

Outdoor and Seasonal Pet Safety

There are many hazards to take into account when ensuring the safety of a pet outdoors. Some of these hazards are year-round concerns, while others are more seasonal. When a pet is outdoors other than in one’s fenced yard, it should be kept on a leash at all times. This can help protect the animal from running into the street, where they face the threat of traffic. A leash will also keep one’s pet from wandering into areas that can prove hazardous in terms of toxic plants and flowers, other animals, or homeowners who may not want animals on their property.

During the summer months, pet owners should protect their pets from extreme temperatures and the problems that too much sun can cause. Dogs, for example, can become sunburned if their noses are exposed to sunlight too long without protection. This is particularly true for animals with lighter-colored noses. Hot sidewalks and other surfaces can burn the pads of an animal’s feet if they become too hot as well. On the hottest days, keep pets indoors when possible. If this is not possible, keep them in a shaded area, away from direct sunlight.

During the winter season, pets can become too cold outdoors as well. As in the summer months, keeping pets indoors is ideal during extreme temperatures.

Animals that are unaccustomed to staying indoors can be moved into a garage that is well-ventilated and warm. An outdoor pet house is also an option. If one’s cat is an outdoor pet, tap the hood of a vehicle before starting it in the mornings: Cats often seek warmth in the area of a car’s engine compartment. If they are not startled from their warm spot, they are in danger of serious injury from the radiator fan once the vehicle is turned on. When it comes to canine pets, snow can easily get packed in the pads of their paws and can result in frostbite. When walking outside with a dog, pet-sitting teens or family members should get into the habit of checking paws for snow or ice.

One of the cornerstones of good health for your puppy is regular veterinary care. It is crucial that your puppy maintains a nutritional diet and exercise routine to stay healthy and balanced. Plus, your vet can advise on heartworm, flea and tick preventative care. While a lot goes into keeping your puppy in good health, it all begins with the first visit to the vet.

Do not expose your puppy to "outside" animals until its immunity is fully up and running (after their third and final set of shots at the vets). If you are out for a walk and meet another dog, pick up your puppy. The other dog might have all it’s shots – but you do not know who/what it has been in contact with and it could be a carrier of something. Pet stores encourage you to bring your puppy’s in, but do not until they are fully vaccinated to prevent any issues that might happen.

When Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated?

• Do continue with vaccinations and heartworm medicine

Worms- your puppy has been wormed according to the Veterinarian Association for Parasite Control; at 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and again at vaccination time. Your puppy should be free from worms but repeat wormings are a must, in order to kill any remaining or newly introduced live worms. Remember, you cannot kill the eggs, only the hatched live worm. This is why you must continue the wormings. The puppy should be wormed at ten weeks and at twelve weeks. Thereafter, fecal exams to check for worm infestation should be done by your veterinarian at his/her recommended scheduling.

Immunizations- are vaccinations administered with the intent to provide immunity to your pet. They are used to protect your pet against particular diseases. The following diseases are briefly explained below:

Rabies- Rabies is a disease caused by a virus that attacks the brain. It can affect any warm- blooded animal, including dogs and humans. It is almost always fatal. The Rabies vaccines are required every three years. A booster is given 1 year following its four-month puppy vaccine and the given every 3 years.

Bordetella- One form of “Kennel Cough” which causes severe coughing and illness. The infection spreads rapidly from dog to dog in close quarters, such as boarding kennel or grooming facility. Following the two vaccines they receive as puppies, this vaccine is given every 6 months.

Leptospirosis- or “lepto” is a deadly bacterial disease spread by wildlife and domestic animals. Common lepto carriers include raccoons, skunks, possums, squirrels, rats and sometimes other dogs. The lepto bacteria are shed in the urine. Dogs become infected when they come in contact with fresh urine of the infected animals. Lepto is a zoonotic disease meaning it can be passed from dogs to people. There a several variant strains of the lepto. Following the two vaccines they receive as puppies, this vaccine is given every year.

DHPP- This is an immunization that protects against multiple infectious diseases. These diseases include Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus. The vaccine is given as young as 6 weeks of age, in a series of 3-4 injections. A booster is given 1 year following the final puppy booster and given every three years.

Distemper- A highly contagious viral disease of the domestic dogs that is usually fatal. “It affects the respiratory system causing severe flu like symptoms at first.” The virus eventually infects the brain causing severe neurological damage.

Hepatits- Caine infectious hepatitis is a specific disease of the liver that is caused by a virus. Parainfluenza-A viral respiratory disease.

Parvovirus- “Parvovirus is a contagious disease of the puppy that causes severe, often fatal, bloody diarrhea.
Heartworm disease and prevention life –threatening parasite
Heartworm disease causes serious damage to a dog’s heart, and can be fatal if left uncontrolled and living in the heart of the dog, the adult heartworms can grow up to 14 inches long. They clog the heart and major blood vessels, reducing the blood supply to the lungs, liver and kidneys. Heartworms put stress on the heart and can cause organ failure, which can lead to death. Mosquitoes transmit this harmful parasite from one dog to another. Female heartworms living in a dog’s heart reproduce and release microscopic worms into the dog’s bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and infected dog it picks up these tiny worms in the dogs then passes them along to other dogs. Since the mosquito can bite any dog, virtually all dogs are at risk.

Consider This:

• Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes
• Heartworm disease can lead to heart failure and death
• Heartworms are easily to prevent!!!!
• All dogs in Texas are at risk and must be on prevention year round
• Even a dog who does not step outside can get heartworms, mosquitoes do come into your closed in environment. Protecting your dog is easier than ever. There is no need to expose your dog to the risk of heartworm disease when it is so easy to prevent. We recommend a monthly heartworm preventative. The following product is available to prevent heartworms and other intestinal parasites:

Sentinel: Prevents heartworms, controls hookworms, and aids in the removal and control of roundworms, and whipworms.

Fleas, Ticks And Prevention Options

Fleas are parasitic blood-sucking insects that can transmit many diseases in your pets. Adult fleas live on the pet; however, immature forms are in the pet’s environment. There are many different forms of flea preventatives form topical to oral treatments. Ticks are ectoparasites (external parasite), by living on the blood of mammals, bird and occasional reptiles and amphibians. Ticks are important vectors of a number of diseases, including Lyme disease.

• Do shop around for a veterinarian. Find someone you are extremely comfortable with, remember you will be going to see them at least once a year for a very long time. Veterinarians also have their own individual fee schedules, so if you call 3 to find out the price you will get 3 completely different prices.
• Do use the internet to research things you have talked to your vet about, but keep in mind the internet is not always 100% correct.

• Do not let the puppy near stairs alone until he/she has entirely mastered them under strict supervision.
• Do not let your puppy run up and down stairs repeatedly. Your puppies joints need to develop and constant running up and down stairs can affect them in the future. We recommend limited stairs until they are 1 year old.
• Do not take your puppy for a 10 kilometer run the week you take it home. As above, your puppy’s joints need to develop and too much exercise can greatly affect them. We strongly recommend limited exercise until they are 1 year old. Build up your walks with your puppy, but do not overdo it.
• Do not pick the puppy up by the scruff of the neck.
• Do not allow children to roughhouse or maul the puppy. You wouldn't let the neighborhood kids do so with your ten-week old baby. Puppies aren't any different.
• Do not feed a puppy rawhide, as it does not digest well and can create problems. We recommend not feeding rawhide to adult dogs also.
• Do get you puppy a tennis ball to play with when they are young – but when they grow up switch it to an orange hockey ball. Tennis balls are great for young puppy’s, easy to hold onto and chase. When your puppy gets a little bigger, they will start chewing the felt and split the ball. The tennis balls can become trapped in their throat as they are springy rubber – so switch to a hockey ball when your puppy keeps it in their mouth and constantly chews.
• Do keep the puppy well confined during the first several weeks home. A puppy that gets loose may wander away and forget, or not know where home is.
• Do housebreak and train your dog with kindness and attention to detail. A helpful tip is to hang a bell from the door knob. Ring it whenever you take the puppy out to go to the bathroom. Quickly, they will learn to ring it for you to let you know it is time to go out. You can find more info on line “Bell Training”.
• Keep in mind, that puppy bladders are usually not large enough to last the entire night until they are around 4-6 months old. After every meal, puppies should be taken outside – they go multiple times; a full stomach puts pressure on the bladder and colon. Use a word, which helps to train you puppy. Our dogs all know the word “Hurry Up”. We start is as a statement (Good Hurry Up), and then as they grow form it as a question to them (Do you need to Hurry Up?), they reply by letting us know they need out. As they go we advise them “Good Hurry Up”. Watch for signs of puppy’s needing out, whining, going in circles. More attention early makes your life easier later.
• Do take your puppy outside to go to the bathroom on a leash. Go outside to the spot you want them to use and just stand their in the same spot instead of wandering around. If you stand in the same spot, your puppy will have a circle around you that they soon become bored of and then they remember what they are there for. If you go to a spot, and then after 2 minutes move 3 feet to the left – you have just doubled their area of exploration. It might take up to 20 minutes the first few times – but stick it out and it will be worth it.
• Do get up in the middle of the night for the first few nights and take your puppy outside. If you take your puppy outside they will go to the bathroom and then go back to sleep. If your puppy has to become frantic and wake you up and then go outside to the bathroom – they will be wide awake and not ready to go back to sleep.
• Do give your puppy all the love and attention you can possibly spare. He/she is going to need it and will return it to you, with triple digit interest.
• Do hook the leash onto your puppy’s collar and let them drag it around the house the first day to get familiar with it. If you go thru a period where your puppy stays just out of reach as a game – leave the leash attached and that gives you an extra 5-6 feet to be able to catch your puppy.
• Do let your puppy run around outside in supervised area’s without their leash. They will explore but it will also teach them to come back to you. If you have ever heard of a dog that ran away the second it was off the leash – that’s because they were always on the leash and did not understand what it was like to be free – so they took full advantage of it.
• Do not use a crate for discipline, it is for supervision only.
• Do consider reading up, we found that “Dogs for Dummies” is a great book and provides help for most situations – but keep in mind not everything they recommend is perfect for all puppy’s and family’s.
• Do sign up for puppy school and at least one additional level of training. Talk to people you meet and find out where they went. There are some training classes / schools where multiple people are allowed to attend (we recommend). If you are attending one where only the puppy handler goes – as soon as school is over, return home and replay everything you learned to the entire family – so that you are prepared for next week. Some schools will allow you to start after your puppy has had his second vaccinations; some require your puppy to have his 3rd set of vaccinations.
• Do not be afraid look at recommended dog schools outside your immediate area. You want your dog to learn about being confident around other dogs and people, you want them to learn that the human members of your family are in charge and the leaders. You want your puppy to develop a work ethic that starts with treats and repetition to learn, and you want help to teach your puppy good life skills (what is acceptable and what is not). You also want to make sure that Positive Reinforcement is the method of training that your school uses.
• Do ask to attend a training class as an observer, and don’t be afraid to ask some of the dog owners about their experiences with the school.
• Do take a couple of different kinds of treats – something really soft and smelly that you always use for teaching important lessons and broken up pieces of milk bones.
• Do not feed your puppy dinner before you go to school, if they are hungry they will work harder for the treat reward and learn faster.
• Do not leave a collar on your puppy while they are unattended in the house, as it could pose a strangulation risk to an inquisitive puppy.
• Do consider a “Gentle Leader” for your puppy if they get to the stage and start to take over walks for you. When put on and used properly a gentle leader is a wonderful tool to help your puppy. We did not believe in them. But tried one at puppy school and it immediately changed our puppy’s attitude. Instead of having to work hard, our job became extremely easy and we both had a much better experience at school.
• Do purchase some hard bones for your puppy, we find that the Rollover ones are extremely hard and last forever. Do not purchase dog bones from a pet store (etc..) that are white. They are from places that do not have the standards that we have and they have been extremely bleached just to be allowed into the country.
• Do provide leadership for your puppy. Dogs are pack animals and will treat your entire family like their pack. Problems occur when dogs rank themselves about the human members of the pack. Dogs need and want a pack leader. Some simple tips are (1) make your puppy wait until you go through the doorway first (2) make your puppy move out of your way – do not go around him/her if they are standing, sitting or lying in your path (3) elevation is important – do not allow your puppy onto your furniture or beds until the pecking order is established – so keep this in mind if you play with your puppy on the floor – when you are at their level – “it’s Playtime”, but when you get up “you are the boss” – teach them to settle when you stand up from playtime (4) feed your puppy after your family has eaten. Always remember that you are IN CHARGE and the pack leader. If you have children you will also have to ensure that they understand this and you will have to help them to rank higher on the pack list than your puppy – but also keep in mind that if you make the correction – that just establishes you as the leader – not your children.
• Do expect to learn more from dog school than your dog does, and to take that information home and apply it to everyday life, which will help your puppy to fit into your family and your extended family and everyone you meet.
• Do make sure everyone involved in the housebreaking process is using the same spot in the yard, using the same word etc..
• Do establish a list of words for your puppy and family to learn and use. One of the harder ones to keep sorted out is down and off. Down should be a command to “lay down”, off should mean “get off” whatever you are on (me, couch, jumping on people, etc.) Keep the wording short to start, and as the puppy grows you will be able to form sentences around the words and they will understand.
• Do become consistent and keep to a schedule. Create a routine around your puppy. This will help to train your puppy faster and easier. Everyone must help and work on keeping the schedule and routine.
• Do trim your puppy’s toenails weekly, and if nothing needs to be trimmed go through the motions so that they are always used to having their feet held on to.
• Do not scold your puppy for things they have done wrong – if you did not catch them in the act. They have an extremely short attention span and most times will have no idea why they are in trouble (even if it is 5 seconds later).
• Do understand that submissive urination is NOT a house training problem. When dogs are young they will sometimes urinate when they greet other dogs or people. It is a sign in canine terms that the puppy is acknowledging the dominance of other dogs or people. Puppy’s have NO Control over this behavior so you must NOT scold them for it (it will make it worse if you do). The best thing to do is ignore it and try to prevent it through better management. Have the puppy go to the bathroom immediately before guests come over, don’t let people bend over and enthusiastically greet your puppy when they immediately meet.
• Do realize puppies chew everything. They are new to this world and need a taste of anything that they can reach, pull on or sleep on. They are just exploring, and without hands – everything goes into the mouth for inspection. You will be amazed at what they can reach.
• Do expect stuffed toys to be ruffed up. We regularly have stuffed frogs or ducks missing hands, feet, the squeaker, the stuffing and they still play away with the remaining flattened body. Just make sure to throw out any small pieces that they have removed before the try to eat them, because they will.
• Do rotate toys and bones etc.. so they do not become bored
• Do always manage the environment around the house / puppy. Praise and encouragement are the most effective methods of training. Is it more work, yes.
• Do become consistent with everything you and your puppy do, and always reward good behavior.
• Do limit the amount of soft treats you give to a puppy, as they are harder on their stomachs.

Most new puppy owners put housebreaking high on their list of priorities. After all, it's frustrating when your dog pees in the house. House training is one of the first things you will work on with your new puppy. Get your puppy off to a good start by putting him on a regular schedule. Feed him at similar times each day.

When You Are Watching Your Puppy:

Remember that puppies respond to very basic reflexes with regards to their toilet habits. Take advantage of these very basic reflexes and turn them into house training. There are certain times when puppies naturally will have the call of nature.

After Eating – After Drinking – After Napping – After Playtime

Remember to go outside with the puppy. Pick up the pup and go outside with him/her. If you put them outside by themselves they will be so upset about being separate from you that they will not go on their own. Make a big fuss over the puppy when it goes outside. They will learn to urinate outside just to please you. Watch your puppy. Pups do not just squat and urinate. They search out for just the right spot thereby giving us ample warning.

The Umbilical Cord Method

This method of house training is best used with the other techniques detailed above. Attach you pup to a long leash that is tied to your wrist or waist. This allows it a certain amount of freedom while ensuring your constant supervision over its activity. The pup cannot wander away to have an undetected “accident” and you can anticipate the pup’s need to potty, taking it directly outside.

When You Are Not Watching Your Puppy:

A very natural instinct in the dog world is the instinct to not soil its own space. We can take advantage of this natural instinct with crate training. If a puppy is left in a crate it will be faced with a decision. It can either hold it or sit in it. Most puppies will try to hold it. If you allow them too much space of course, they will sleep in one end and urinate in the other end. Block off larger crates into smaller areas and once he has been good for a few days, slowly increase the amount of space that he can have.

Basic Training

The best and most reliable way to house train your puppy is to provide frequent opportunity to eliminate in an appropriate place and to reward this behaviour immediately as it occurs. To do this, walk your puppy on a leash at regular intervals and at least twice every day.

Puppies require more frequent walks until they are able to reliably control their bladders. This usually occurs by 6 months of age. The best method of house training is to take your puppy out within several minutes after each meal and each nap. These are predictable moments during the day when bowel and bladder are most full. Feed your puppy at scheduled mealtimes and avoid snacks between feedings. Allowing you puppy continuous access to food makes house training more difficult.

It is best to leash walk your puppy within 15 minutes or sooner after each meal. Continue to walk, incorporating play to make it fun, until the puppy has eliminated. If your puppy is too young to walk on a leash, carry it outside to an enclosed, safe area. Stay nearby and play with or pet it. If your pup is slow adjusting to leash walks, be patient. Avoid pulling the leash and allow your pup to take its time. When the pup prepares to eliminate, begin praising it in a happy and light tone of voice. Continue your praise until the task is completed. Immediate encouragement is necessary for your pup to learn to eliminate in an acceptable area. As your dog eliminates, pleasantly say something like “hurry” or “do it” and give abundant praise. This teaches the pup to void on command so that you won’t freeze unnecessarily on a cold winter night while the pup leisurely looks for just the right spot. If your pup is initially afraid of the leash, leave the leash on indoors for brief period without holding onto it. When the pup becomes more accustomed to the collar and leash, take the pup for brief leash walks indoors before graduating to walks outside. Daily leash walks through out a dog’s life help maintain good elimination habits.

Paper training is not the method of choice, contrary to popular opinion. Paper training encourages the pup to eliminate on newspapers spread over the floor in a designated area of the home. This can lead to several problems. The first is that you may confuse your pup by teaching it twice what it needs to learn only once. When, and if, the pup has learned to void on the newspapers, it must then be retrained to eliminate outside. The second problem with paper training is that you may unintentionally teach your pup that it is acceptable to eliminate inside your home. Though some puppies stay on the paper, many more miss the boundaries set for them. Instead, it may learn that soiling in a variety of unacceptable areas in your home is acceptable.

Another problem is the practice of punishing the pup for eliminating in the house and then taking it immediately outside. Punishment is often followed by whisking the puppy outside into a big and scary world, where the irritated owner impatiently waits for the puppy to “go”. Your puppy may begin to fear you and fear eliminating in your presence.

It is pointless to punish your dog at any age for “accidents” that occur in your home. This is particularly true when there is any delay between the act of soiling and your discovery of the mess. To be effective, punishment (and praise, for that matter) must closely follow our pet’s action. No matter how frustrated you may be, clean up the mess and concentrate on the steps to prevent another one.

Crate Training

Do not allow the dog onto human resting areas (beds, sofas, and chairs) Reason- Leaders control the best sleeping areas.

A crate is used to confine a puppy when you are unable to supervise him. If your puppy is given enough time to become comfortable in his crate, it may become one of his favorite spots. Crates can help prevent your puppy from developing bad habits like inappropriate chewing or soiling.

Crates are also good tools for house training. Most dogs will not relieve themselves in the same place where they sleep. If your dog is in the crate when he isn't outside with you or under your supervision in your house, you may be able to stop or even avoid the habit of him going potty indoors.

A puppy shouldn't be kept in his crate for more than a few hours at a time. However, he should not have the full run of the house, even when you are home to supervise him. There are too many things in a house for a puppy to chew on, hide under, or get harmed by. Confining him to a kitchen or another small room with a door or baby gate can go a long way in preventing your puppy from developing bad habits.

Remember, a puppy who gets the opportunity to do something he finds enjoyable, such as gnawing on your furniture, is more likely to repeat the behavior. Confinement keeps him from getting these opportunities.

The rule of thumb for dog training is “set up for success.” Supervise the puppy at all times until it has learned what it is allowed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Keeping the puppy on a 10 foot remote leash is an excellent way to keep it in sight, and to train it not to wonder off. This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or for a very busy household.

At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need go out, house it in a secure area. An escape proof crate, a dog run, or collapsible pen is simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. When selecting your dog’s confinement area it is useful to consider a number o factors. The dog will adapt fastest to the new area if it is associated with rewards. Have the puppy enter the area for all its treats and toys the area should have some warm dry, comfortable bedding and should never be used for punishment. Each time the puppy needs to be confined it should be first well exercised and given the opportunity to eliminate.

Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He/she should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His/her crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you get a huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a 30-40lb dog, you may have to buy two different crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.

Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den as they are denning animals. Dog crates make excellent dens. It is a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.

Watch your own dog around home. Where do you find him/her napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair or in a corner? Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead or walls around him/her and a little privacy. A crate offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all.

There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows:

Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, “BED, KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble; when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate door. Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him back out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.

To make things easier for your pups transition to his/her new home, we have started crate training. From birth the pups have been going into a large crate at night with Mom and now for the past week as they have been weaned they have been going into individual cat carriers at night. The pups generally go to sleep around 10p.m. and wake up at 7 a.m. As this is sleep time for them they are very seldom waking up to go to the bathroom. Now this being said, should they be put in a crate during the day or when they are awake they most likely will not be able to hold their bladder/bowels for such a long period of time.

Your puppy has two different cries. One to say “Hey, I need out to use the bathroom” and one that says “I am awake in here and lonely”. It will take you some time to become accustomed to his/her sounds but remember one thing if your puppy is crying for attention and you take him/her out for cuddles in your bed, the cycle of training may have to be started over as they have now learned that crying means they get out and are given cuddles. Always try to console through the crate rather tan taking out.

Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard. And don't forget to play with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness. Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and he will be looking to you for direction.

Do not rush to get your puppy out of the crate, we recommend using them until they are at least 10-12 months old. They usually go through a chewing stage at 7-11 months and many many people have lost corners from furniture because they rushed to get their puppy out of the crate. After this time, keep your crate and leave the door open on it – your dog will feel comfortable and you will regularly find them sleeping in it.

Reminder: Do not use a crate for discipline, it is for supervision only.

What you need to know about crate-training

The first few weeks you have your new puppy are the most formative in several regards. One of the primary behaviors that are essential for your puppy’s life is proper house /crate training. There are several steps to get your puppy trained as quickly as possible, but all steps have a common denominator- consistency. Crate training relies on your puppy’s natural desire to keep its bed clean. Every successful experience is important.

Do not confuse your puppy with a modified approach, i.e. paper training. At night, the crate should be in a responsible person’s bedroom, and the puppy should be taken outside if it wakes in the night. Carry the puppy to the same location every time and use the same phrase or command to encourage the puppy to eliminate. Praise every success. As the puppy matures it can walk to the door. If the time is right and you know the puppy needs to go but he does not, return the puppy to the rate for five to fifteen minutes and the carry the puppy back outside to the correct site. Praise, praise, praise.

If there is an accident, clean up with enzyme-type pet odor remover. Do not discipline the puppy. Puppies learn to hide when they need to relieve themselves if they fear your reaction. Housetraining is first learned by people then puppies. Watch for your puppy’s body language. Circling, sniffing, walking backward and pausing in a straddle position are all common prior to elimination. Puppies need to go outside after sleeping (even a short nap), after eating, before bed, and many times during play. Playtime is when most accidents occur. Restrict your puppy’s access to most of the house. Be sure to put your puppy in its bed (crate) for naps to prevent “after sleeping” accidents.

Crate training is best for small breeds because they feel safe and secure in a small bed and it restricts their area enough to tap their internal desire to keep the bed clean. The laundry room or playpen is simply too much space.

Crate training is best for large breeds because as they grow older and their chewing needs really influence behavior, 8-18 months of age, your home will be protected from the damage and they are already adjusted and comfortable with the crate. A one-year old doodle can do massive damage to carpet, door moldings, wallpaper and wallboard. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth hundreds of dollars of cure.

Crate training your pet allows you to include then in all aspects of family life and still maintain control of your home while demonstrating your role as the leader of the pack.

Avoid using the crate for punishment; it is your pet’s safe haven.

Controlling your puppy's mouthing, chewing and biting. Dogs, especially puppies are extremely playful and investigative. While play with people and other dogs is an important part of socialization and social development, exploration and object play are important ways for dogs to learn about their environment. Therefore it is a normal behavior for puppies to investigate their environment by sniffing, tasting and perhaps chewing on objects throughout the home. Dogs that chew may also be scavenging for food (as in garbage raiding), playing (as in the dog chews apart a book or couch), teething (dogs 3 to 6 months of age that chew on household objects (, or satisfying a natural urge to chew and gnaw (which may serve to help teeth and gums to stay healthy). Some dogs may chew because they receive attention (even if it is negative) or treats form their owners each time they chew, and the owners are inadvertently rewarding the behavior. Chewing and destructive behaviors may also be a response to anxiety. Dogs that are confined in areas where they are insecure may dig and chew in an attempt to escape. Dogs that are in a state of conflict, arousal or anxiety, such as separation anxiety, may turn to chewing and other forms of destructiveness as an outlet.

Crate Training

Crate training can be a very effective housebreaking tool, it can also help to reduce separation anxiety and prevent destructive behaviour (such as chewing furniture), to keep puppy away from dangerous household items and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy’s favourite toys and treats at the far end opposite the door opening. Toys that provide entertainment for long periods of time are great. A few great ideas are the KONG or NYLABONE or a BALL.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than 3 hours.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for your puppy. Most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding while some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface and may push the towel away.

Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate.

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your puppy: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Use only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your puppy. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Please note: Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder control and will need to eliminate very frequently. Adjust the crate times accordingly.

Most puppies love to explore and chew, so it’s no surprise when a young puppy steals household objects. When you try to get these items back from your dog, a chase ensues. When dealing with an unwanted behavior look for the motivation. Some puppies steal objects when they are left unsupervised, because they have not been directed to an acceptable activity. Puppies may continue to steal because the game of chase is so much fun. Each of these motivations has a different treatment.

If left to their own devices, puppies will get into trouble. It is important to supervise your puppy at all times. Keep the puppy with you and in sight. Be sure that you schedule adequate play times daily so that you are helping your puppy engage in the proper behavior. Arrange the environment so that the puppy cannot get to items. For example, close doors, use barrier gates, crate training or motion sensor devices to monitor where your pet can go.

If your puppy continues to steal in your presence, the best means of monitoring and prevention is to leave a long leash attached, preferably to a head halter. Then as the puppy begins to wander, or puts its nose into “out of bounds” areas a quick pull on the leash will teach it to stay away.

If your puppy is stealing things because the game is so much fun, then don’t play. Instead of chasing your puppy all over the house, try crouching down in a happy voice - with open arms call your puppy to you. When the puppy looks towards you, say “good puppy, come show me!” Keep up the praise as the puppy approaches. With a treat, entice the puppy to come, show the treat and when the puppy drops the stolen object, say “good dog”. Make it come closer, sit, and then give the reward.

Most importantly, never reach for your puppy in anger after it has taken something. Remember, the behavior you want to change is the stealing, not the cowering under the table. When you threaten your puppy in that way, your risk fear and later an aggressive behavior. For some puppies if you ignore then when they steal things and try to engage them in something else instead, they may “give up” the object voluntarily.

Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is generally unnecessary and can lead to avoidance of family members, at time when bonding and attachment is critical. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for the entire puppy’s needs, and setting up the environment for success, little or no punishment should ever be required. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal “no” or a loud noise is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can redirect the puppy to correct behavior.